Wednesday 17 April 2013

Patriot's Day


First of all, there is Patriot’s Day itself, which is, quite simply, the best holiday nobody knows about, hands down. Stuck there in the middle of April, unique to the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, quietly acting as the default “floating holiday” for huge swathes of the population, Patriot’s Day somehow seemed to offer itself up as the official opening to Spring on an inordinate number of occasions. It was often the day where the weather would finally turn the corner from “still damn cold” to “I better watch it or I’m gonna get a sun burn”. Of course, there were more than a few times where snow threatened and you’d just look at the group you were hanging out with, shrug your shoulders, say “New England for ya” and retreat to Who’s On First, Copperfield’s, The Cask & Flagon, Clark’s, The Elliot Lounge, Daisy’s – any port really, any port. Then there were the days when it was, in fact, really hot out. In those cases you would enjoy the sun for as long as you could stand it, look at the group you were hanging out with, shrug your shoulders, say “ya ready fer one?” and retreat to Who’s on First, Copperfield’s, The Cask & Flagon, Clark’s, The Elliot Lounge, Daisy’s – any port really, any port. Some things just need to be done.

You’ll never blow that up.

Then there is the morning game. When I was young I found out there were day games and there were night games. And there was one, and only one, morning game.  That game was played by the Boston Red Sox and whoever was (un) lucky enough to draw the short straw of having to get themselves out of their hotel beds and schlep over to the Fens at around 8:00 AM on a Monday morning.  That’s right – Patriot’s Day manages to make Monday morning “Monday morning” for millionaire baseball players – but for fans it was heaven.  It meant meeting a gang of people at around 10:00 at Who’s On First, Copperfield’s (okay – you get the picture), trudging in to Fenway Park with the somewhat illicit glow of having had something to drink before noon (on a weekday!) and then watching baseball at a time of year when the game is still new enough to cause you to remember the Donald Hall poem Ken Burns put in his film… “down under the frost line it waits, to return when the birds return…” (that is, if you remember anything – after all you were in a bar at 10:00 in the morning…).   It meant spilling out of the stands after the game, making your way down towards the marathon, cheering some guy from the copy room, or a college classmate, or that girl who told you at the previous week’s party that she was running (“Which girl”?  - “You know the one with the…" “ Oh yeah – that one – she can run with those???”).  But all this comes after the morning game – the game that ends early enough for the rest of the day to spread out before you with all kinds of glorious possibilities.

You’ll never blow that up.

And there is the race…always the race.  I ran it once, when I was a senior in college, still in shape from football season, intramural basketball and the seemingly amazing fact that, at that age, it was still possible to keep weight off.  I finished right around the four hour mark, and they gave you three things when you crossed the line.  You got a Mylar blanket (still have it), a container of yogurt (I don’t recall the flavor but, trust me on this, it could have been called “Pig Poop” and I would’ve eaten it), and a paper certificate saying you had finished the Boston Marathon.  What they did not give you was a spoon with which to eat the yogurt – but the certificate could be folded into a reasonable facsimile – which is why the only thing I have left is the blanket.  The marathon, for its participants, both elite and non-elite, is largely a “destination race”.  Boston is not an Olympic qualifier – it has lots of hills but the elevation drop is too great to allow for a world’s record to be recognised (a ridiculous position for track authorities to take, by the way), and it comes right before London, which means that it always forces a choice on you if you’re among the world’s best.  For non-elites Boston’s draw is its history, its tradition, its “essence” – but it's either too hot, or too cold, or too windy large parts of the time.  But still, they come – because, and I’m going to get technical here, well, BECAUSE IT’S FREAKIN’ AWESOME!  Because you go from small town Hopkinton to Framingham where the railroad tracks run beside you, to Wellesley where the girls line the road and cheer you on, to Newton where the hills that you don’t even notice when you’re in a car become HILLS and then into Boston’s neighborhoods – Allston and Brighton (or is it Brighton then Allston – and how the hell do you tell the difference?), and then into Brookline – and when did the Back Bay get so freakin’ far from Cleveland Circle? and – “Hey that’s my cousin – what the heck is he doin’ here?” – and then Kenmore Square (did the Sox win?) until you turn a corner and – there it is, so close, so close…  (Let’s halt right there – because you can temporarily do that – but here’s the thing - you might delay that feeling, but…)

 You’ll never blow that up.

And for spectators the race is a smorgasbord of sights.  The start is incredible, a sea of humanity that bobs by in some kind of indefinable rhythm.  Or you can watch in the early stages – about ten miles in – where there is always someone in the lead pack you don’t expect – and where you can begin to have the following conversation as the red faced frat boy who is about to end up on the losing end of a drunken bet wobbles by – “ain’t no way that guy's makin’ it”.  But the success stories outnumber the failures and there is the great novelty shop of runners to watch – I’ve seen Batman, Spiderman, Superman, Underdog and untold numbers of Santa Clauses run by me.  Figures from history abound – even some you wouldn’t expect.  Along with George Washington, Abe Lincoln and assorted Romans in togas I swear Richard Nixon runs the marathon every year.  You can watch for the celebrities – both the everyday ones (“I heah Mahky-Mahk might run this yeeeah”) and the pure marathon ones, for the race creates its own.  Watching for Johnny Kelly used to be something everybody did.   Then it became the Hoyt’s – the father and son team who run together and raise the spirits of everyone they pass.  Or you can watch for people you know – (“Hey – that’s my cousin – what the hell is he doin’ running this thing?”) And there is the experience of watching with other people and what that brings to the table.  There was the one year I watched from the hills in Newton with some of my friend David’s relatives, one of whom told me about her tennis playing exploits in Florida during the winter just past.  Nothing remarkable about that except that the relative was his grandmother who was heading towards ninety at the time.  Gramma was deadly on clay.

You’ll never blow that up.

But Boston is a destination race after all – and the goal is to finish.  People go there to scratch it off their bucket list and casually say, in conversations held worldwide – “Yeah – I ran Boston”.  That’s why the finish line is crowded both with people who want to be there when their loved ones cross the line – and the people who want to see those meetings and just witness the endless supply of joy that is brought about through those finish line reunions.  “Gramma – you did it!”, “Will you marry me now?”, “Take that cancer!”, “That was for Dad” and, always, “I JUST DID BOSTON!”.  You can divert that for a bit.  Yeah – you can slow it down – but…

You’ll never blow that up.

You can’t blow it up because (here’s a little secret) – you can’t really destroy the good parts of cities.  You can destroy buildings, you can raze entire blocks, you can flood whole districts, you can eliminate the very names from the maps – but if there is an honest heart to a city – it comes back.  I recall a certain September morning a few years back – you think New York is gone?  I hear New Orleans was wiped out by a hurricane – but I also recall them winning the Super Bowl recently.  I’ve walked the streets of Warsaw, including the “old district” which contains not a single building older than 1955, but which was lovingly reconstructed by its citizens from any scrap of plans or memories they could find.  Warsaw isn’t supposed to exist – sentenced to death by Hitler himself – but I’ve been there and it’s got some damn fine restaurants.  Speaking of old Adolf – his own Berlin was ravaged by Nazi pestilence and split by a wall – but is now a great place to party.  Hiroshima itself has overcome its demons to thrive and send lanterns floating down its river every year as testament to the peace it wishes for all and the sacrifice it made to secure that peace.  Go back as far as you want – Rome was sacked countless times – all that did is make it a more interesting place to visit.  Even Troy – the ultimate symbol of a city opening its doors to its own destruction - lives on.  No really – it does.  Troy is found in upstate New York – it was the home of the original Uncle Sam – you can look it up.  But you can’t blow it up.

Yes – you can ruin a city’s day, you can disrupt its routine, you can create tragedy, you can even, you worthless bastards, leave the blood and life of an innocent eight year old on its streets.  But if you think, even for a second, that your puny little attempt to overcompensate for what must be a seriously deficient intellect can inspire fear, terror, despair or surrender – think again.  All that you have created is defiance, resolve, inspiration and heroism.  All of those are traits that last much longer than your pathetic effort to overcome them.  They lead people to do some crazy, wonderful  things.  You will find out the following about those people:

You’ll never blow them up.

If you go out into Boston Harbor you will find a series of islands that have been made in to a national park.  There are still many people who don’t even know this exists but it's a sight well worth checking out.  On one of those islands stands an abandoned fort and you can go to its top turret and look back over the entire city.  To your right is East Boston, where the planes are landing.  Further on, Charlestown, with its monument standing tall against the sky.  Look to your left and you see Southie, the hills of Dorchester, the Blue Hills marking the edge of Roxbury,  JP, Hyde Park, Roslindale, West Roxbury (how do they know where one ends and the other begins)?   Over in the distance the tall buildings mark the Back Bay, with Allston and Brighton (Brighton and Allston?) just beyond.  And right before you is Boston proper, from Beacon Hill down to the waterfront and just off to the right, in the North End, a steeple.  On an April night over 200 years ago, one man (who was obviously crazy) stood in that steeple and signaled another fellow (who must have been equally loony) that he should go and try to stop the firepower of the greatest empire on earth – because said empire thought they could use that firepower to break the spirit of the people of Boston.  We all know how that turned out.  So how can you – you worthless little twit – think that your pathetic attempt to “terrorize” Boston has any chance of success?  Look at this city asshole – and know this:

You’ll never, ever, blow it up.

WINK

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